Milk + Honey - Baking History
  • Home
  • About Milk + Honey
Home
About Milk + Honey
Milk + Honey - Baking History
  • Home
  • About Milk + Honey
Cookies

Macarons, the Cookie You’re Probably Mispronouncing

March 14, 2018 by hannahabaffy 2 Comments
Macarons

Recipes have a habit of changing over time, an evolution influenced by location, availability, necessity, and innovation. More often than not history’s greatest recipes have come about as a result of scarcity rather than gastronomic brilliance. Sometimes so many alterations are made to a single recipe that it becomes difficult to decide when a dish has actually become something new altogether. I have come to the conclusion that in order for a dish to remain true to itself, in the deepest sense of the word, it must adhere to a certain set of criterion.

Firstly, its base ingredients must remain the same, if the recipe calls for almonds, by all means, use hazelnuts or pistachios, but one must remain within the confines of the nut family. Additions of flavor and color may, of course, be made, these are simply “interpretations” or enhancements. The physical configuration of a recipe may also be played with, and the size may, of course, be altered to suit the maker and its intended purpose.

It’s once those base ingredients are omitted altogether, or inversely, once so many additional ingredients are added that the ratios of those original to the recipe have become unbalanced; it is then that we are forced to start considering the amalgam to be a new creation unto itself.

 

The Navel of Origin

Like so many desserts, the macaron has gone through a slow steady evolution. According to the “New Larousse Gastronomique,” the macaron, in its most primal form, consists of nothing more than almonds, sugar, and egg whites. This basic amalgam was said to have first been created in the 8th century, behind the walls of a Venetian Abbey. These small cookies were piped out in a circular fashion with a signature hole left in the center of each. It is said that the kinky, not to mention, unappetizing inspiration for the cookie was drawn from a monk’s belly-button.

Similar almond based desserts had been popular among the Arabs for a long time prior to this. Stories of a sweetmeat from the days of the Umayyads, known as a louzeih (loz meaning “almond” in Arabic) suggests they were likely the creators of the original macaron, bringing the recipe with them later to Italy.

Along with utensils and pate a choux, macarons made their way to France via Catherine de Medici when she married the Duke of Orleans in 1533. Linguistically, the word macaron shares the same root as the word for that most famous elbow-shaped pasta. The word macarone meaning “fine dough” was confusingly used as a catch-all term in Italian for anything made from a flour-and-water paste. This was also applied to the macaron cookie since it too started out as a paste, albeit one comprised of eggs and almonds. It would seem that macarone referred to a particular technique, more than a certain recipe. Tracing the roots of the word a little further to the ancient Greeks’ term for “mixing” or “kneading” we catch a glimmer of the logic behind using one word to describe a myriad of very different foods.

 

In Leu of Meat

Macarons remained a continual theme amongst the men and women of the cloth, perhaps because of the dietary restrictions of their lifestyle, many of whom were sworn vegetarians. High in protein, almonds were a logical alternative to meat.  St. Theresa of Avila was reported to have said that “Almonds are good for those maidens who do not eat meat.” 

Though popular behind abbey walls, macarons would have been a rarity within more secular communities. The introduction of macarons to the rest of Europe has much to do with two nuns. The sisters, seeking asylum in Nancy during the French revolution, took refuge in the home of the very appropriately named, Dr. Gormand. Looking for a way to sustain themselves, and earn their room and board in the home of the benevolent yet economic doctor, the nuns capitalized on the exotic appeal of the abbey treat, selling their macarons on the rue de la Hache to earn their living. Their delicious interpretation of the cookie gained such fame that eventually the street where they sold them was renamed rue des Soeurs-Macarons, or the street of the Macaron Sisters.

 

From Bellybuttons to Burgers

A simple one cookie affair, the macaron was originally served without flavors or fillings. It wasn’t until the 20th century that Claude Gerbet created the cookie sandwich, reminiscent of a hamburger, that we associate with macarons today. In typical fashion, he dubbed his creation the gerbet. However, some contend that Pierre Desfontaines of the French pâtissierie Ladurée was the first to create the Paris Macaron. No matter the originator, Ladurée, already a haunt for the wealthy and influential, certainly was the place it became famous.

 

You’re Saying it Wrong

While Catherine de Medici introduced the macaron to the Gauls, Italian Jews spread the recipe to the Ashkenazi in Eastern Europe, who embraced the flourless cookie as a Passover treat. Somewhere along the way, coconut replaced the traditional almond, and though coconut does indeed have the word “nut” in its title, technically speaking it is a fruit. And that is where I draw the line, this flagrant use of coconut marked the complete abandonment of a necessary element of the recipe. This is when the macaron became the macaroon and began its heinous expedition to confuse and bewilder the American population at large. When the Ashkenazi emigrated to the US, the switch had already been made. The delicate nut-based cookies had become the obscene unrefined haystacks we typically see dipped and drizzled in chocolate.

Though the macaroon is a delicious invention, obviously inspired by the macaron; it is a different cookie altogether and the oblivious swapping of the two terms is unacceptable.  Leaving confusion in its wake, this misrepresentation of the macaron or the macaroon for that matter must end. Below I have fleshed out the differences for you between the classic macaron and the usurping macaroon.

 

 

         Macaron                                           Macaroon

        (Mack-ah-ROHN)                             (Mack-ah-RUNE)

           Nut-Based                                        Fruit-Based

         Delicate Egg-Shell Crust                    Dense but consistent

   with chewy interior                                     texture

 

And these are just the glaring differences, suffice it to say these are two very different cookies.

 

From belly-buttons to hamburgers to haystacks, the macaron is a perfect example of how recipes change and adapt to their circumstances. Taking on different shapes and names as they pass through the generations, and finally becoming something different altogether. Here’s a recipe for macarons that is easily adaptable to any fillings you like. I chose a delicately floral flavored buttercream for mine but these would pair nicely with any flavor you prefer or even a chocolate ganache. 

 

 

Rose Macarons

Ingredients

 

For the Macarons

1 1/3 cups (4 ounces) Almond Flour

2 cups (8 ounces) Confectioners Sugar

5 Egg Whites (5 ounces)

1/3 cup (2 1/2 ounces) Sugar

1 Tablespoon Rose Water

1/2 teaspoon Kosher Salt

Pink food coloring (optional)

 

For the Rose Buttercream

4 ounces Sugar

2 ounces Egg Whites

7 ounces Unsalted Butter, room temperature

2 Tablespoons Rosewater

 

Instructions

 

Fit a large pastry bag with a plain round tip.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Using a 1 1/2-inch cookie cutter, trace circles onto your parchment about an inch apart. You’ll use this as a template when you are ready to pipe your macarons. Flip your parchment paper over so that none of the pencil lead gets onto your macarons.

 

Macarons

 

 

For the Macarons

Sift together the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar in a large bowl and set aside.

 

Macarons

 

In the bowl of a standing mixer beat the egg whites until frothy, then while continuing to whisk, slowly add in the rose water, food coloring, and salt. Beat until the whites hold a stiff peak.

 

Macarons

 

Remove the bowl from the standing mixer and add in the dry ingredients. With a large rubber spatula begin to fold the ingredients together. At first, the whites and almonds will seem hopelessly incompatible but in the face of adversity, we must persevere. Keep folding, and don’t be afraid to get aggressive with the batter. We are actually trying to knock some of the air out of the egg whites.

This act of stirring the meringue and almond flour together is called macaronage and is the most important part of making macarons. Despite the host of problems listed in many a book and website on how to make macarons, this is the point of no return; if you mess this up there is no coming back. With that said, don’t be afraid. The worst that can happen is you won’t have a perfect looking macaron; they will still taste delicious and their ugly little forms will act as the incentive to make another batch.

Undermixed Macaron Batter

The batter will still be quite stiff, and if you drop a spoonful of the stuff back onto the batter it will sit there never incorporating. This means it needs to be mixed longer.

Overmixed Macaron Batter

After a lot of mixing, macaron batter can become quite runny. If you drop a spoonful of it back into the mix at this point it will ooze into the rest of the batter in a matter of seconds. At this stage, the macarons will never hold their form. They can be baked, they may even develop feet, (the little ruffles at the bottom of a perfect mac) but you probably won’t be able to wrangle the batter into perfect little circles.

What you’re aiming for is a batter the texture of lava. It should ooze, but slowly, and when dropped back into the bowl sit on top of the batter for about 20 seconds before disappearing into the rest of the mixture.

Piping the Macarons

Transfer about half the batter to your pastry bag. Don’t be too eager to fit all the batter in at once, the less batter in your bag the more control you have.

Using your parchment template as your guide, pipe out the batter, stopping before the macarons reach the edge of the circle. The batter will spread the rest of the way on its own.

When you’ve filled every circle, grab your baking sheet firmly in both hands and bang the sheet against the counter. This allows any air pockets lurking within your macarons to come to the surface and pop, ensuring you have smooth tops.

Although it is tempting to throw these straight into the oven, show some restraint. Allow them to rest uncovered, for about an hour before baking. This allows a skin to develop. By the time you’re ready to bake, you should be able to touch the macarons without leaving an impression.

Baking the Macarons

About ten minutes prior to baking, preheat your oven to 300℉. Bake the macarons for 15-16 minutes rotating your pan halfway through. Even if you have a convection oven, be sure to rotate the pans. These cookies have a tendency to take on a golden hue quickly, especially if you’re making a light colored macaron. 

Once baked, take them out of the oven and allow them to cool thoroughly on the pans. While they cool, make the buttercream

For the Rose Buttercream

Combine the egg whites and sugar in the bowl of a standing mixer and set over a pot of simmering water. Whisk together until the amalgam reaches 160 ℉ on an instant-read thermometer. Or when a small amount rubbed between your fingers no longer feels gritty. That is a sign that it’s reached a temperature hot enough for the sugar to dissolve into the eggs, and that’s really all we want.

Transfer the eggs to the mixer and beat until the whites have reached stiff peaks and have cooled. Check to make sure they are cool enough by feeling the bottom of the bowl. It should no longer feel warm.

With the whisk attachment still going, add in the room temperature butter, piece by piece. When all of the butter is incorporated, keep mixing. After a soupy, lumpy, curdled-looking stage, you’ll achieve the silky perfection that is Swiss meringue buttercream. Add in the rose water and food coloring. Mix until fully incorporated.

Transfer to a pastry bag and pipe about a teaspoon of icing onto half the meringue cookies.

 

Macarons

 

Top with the other halves and voila, perfect rose macarons!

 

Share this:

  • Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on LinkedIn (Opens in new window)
  • Click to print (Opens in new window)
  • More
  • Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Skype (Opens in new window)
  • Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window)
  • Click to email this to a friend (Opens in new window)
Share:
Page 2 of 9«1234»...Last »

About Me

Hi, I'm Hannah. Creator of Milk + Honey and long time curious eater. Join me as I explore the surprising history behind some of the world's most iconic dishes, and figure out the best ways to prepare them.

Recent Posts

  • God, Granola, and the Spiritual Qualities of Breakfast Cereal
  • Groom’s Cake, the Last Bastion of Gentility
  • The Great White Hope, 5 Steps to the Perfect Drip Cake
  • Pizzelle, The Cookie from Limbo

Milk + Honey

Milk + Honey

Categories

  • Basics (10)
  • Breads (5)
  • Breakfast (3)
  • Cakes (6)
  • Cocktails (1)
  • Confections (3)
  • Cookies (9)
  • Cupcakes (1)
  • Custards + Puddings (1)
  • Dessert Sauces (1)
  • Frozen Desserts (1)
  • Gluten Free (3)
  • Kitchen Sorcery (2)
  • Libations (1)
  • Pastry (4)
  • Pies + Tarts (6)
  • Sandwiches (1)
  • Sweet Breads (2)
  • Techniques (2)

Subscribe to Blog via Email

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 865 other subscribers

Socialize With Me

Popular Posts

Cocoa Powder, Regular or Dutched?

Cocoa Powder, Regular or Dutched?

September 1, 2017
Pancakes, From Hell to Breakfast

Pancakes, From Hell to Breakfast

February 6, 2018
Apple Pie, American by Association

Apple Pie, American by Association

July 12, 2017

Categories

  • Basics
  • Breads
  • Breakfast
  • Cakes
  • Cocktails
  • Confections
  • Cookies
  • Cupcakes
  • Custards + Puddings
  • Dessert Sauces
  • Frozen Desserts
  • Gluten Free
  • Kitchen Sorcery
  • Libations
  • Pastry
  • Pies + Tarts
  • Sandwiches
  • Sweet Breads
  • Techniques
Read all of our wedding reviews on our Milk + Honey Bakery Storefront at Wwlogo 83x19

Recent Posts

God, Granola, and the Spiritual Qualities of Breakfast Cereal

God, Granola, and the Spiritual Qualities of Breakfast Cereal

October 7, 2019
Groom’s Cake, the Last Bastion of Gentility

Groom’s Cake, the Last Bastion of Gentility

September 30, 2019

The Great White Hope, 5 Steps to the Perfect Drip Cake

September 25, 2019

Pizzelle, The Cookie from Limbo

September 9, 2019

Brown Betty, Dessert or Racial Epithet?

August 19, 2019

Instagram feed

milkandhoneythebakery

"By their desserts will I judge them."
•Saveur Food Blog Award Finalist 2019: Best Baking and Sweets

Hannah | Milk + Honey Bakery
Imagine it: A thick, creamy, salty layer of peanut Imagine it: A thick, creamy, salty layer of peanut butter sandwiched between a crunchy coating of toasted almonds and toffee and a sweet chewy base of dates and oats. Now drizzle that in dark chocolate, and you’ve got yourself these decadent raw chocolate, peanut butter almond bars. 

Vegan, refined-sugar free, and gluten-free, eating responsibly has never felt so indulgent. Get the recipe on the blog this week!
The superiority of chocolate, both for health and The superiority of chocolate, both for health and nourishment, will soon give it the same preference over tea and coffee in America which it has in Spain.
-Thomas Jefferson

While not necessarily for the health reasons stated, Jefferson’s prediction has certainly come to materialize, at least in my home.
A debate I had with my husband shortly after makin A debate I had with my husband shortly after making this honey-almond “snack cake”: As we sat around “snacking,” we began to discuss what the real difference was between Snack cakes and Snacking cakes. Banal, yet relevant in the moment. 

This arbitrary mystery resulted in a lot of opinions and by the end of it, several unanswered questions. 

So I put it to you, Instagram Family, what is the real difference between Snack cakes and Snacking cakes? Are the terms so similar as to be inconsequential, or do their comparabilities hide deeper differences? 

The perimeters (at least in my mind) are these: Leftover birthday cake that becomes the next morning’s breakfast would definitely be a snack cake. Meaning a snack cake, while sounding laid-back, could be a slice of sophisticated dacquiouse or some other luxurious dessert.
Whereas a snacking cake would be something more along the lines of a sheet cake (like the classic chocolate Texas variety). More than a brownie but less than a layer cake. Something you could take a fork to but would probably just pick up with your hands. 

In short, any cake can be a snack. But not every cake is a snacking cake.

Thoughts?
When confronted by the age old question: ‘chocol When confronted by the age old question: ‘chocolate or carrot,’ which do you choose?
Is it too soon for #pumpkinspice ? Is it too soon for #pumpkinspice ?
Fragranced by delicate basil, rich with parmesan a Fragranced by delicate basil, rich with parmesan and pine nuts, and packing a garlicky punch, our braided pesto bread is the ideal way to use up your garden’s bounty. 

Also it looks impressive. Pull-out all the stops and impress your family and guests with this ultra-easy and rewarding loaf.
Consumed by Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs the ancient Consumed by Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs the ancient Mesoamericans are remembered as the original chocolate lovers. Considered a sacred beverage among them, cocoa was used during celebrations and religious ceremonies and was thought to lend the drinker strength.

It is said that Montezuma kept a massive storehouse of cocoa beans, and drank 50 golden cups of the stuff a day, decreeing that only those men brave enough to face battle would be permitted to join him in drinking it. Chocolate eventually becoming a regular part of military rations among the Aztecs. 

The belief that chocolate was a powerful elixir that lent its drinker extra virility and strength seems to have made its way into European and US thinking as well and may explain the application of including chocolate or pressed cakes of cocoa powder in US military rations, an operation practiced all the way up to the Vietnam war. 

With piles of historical evidence it would stand to reason that chocolate must be good for me, so I’m going to start making a regular habit of indulging in it. Each bite imbuing me with strength, vim, and vigor. Don’t stay a weakling all your life, join me in making these chocolate pot de creme today and start eating more chocolate.
A creamy savior, ice cream was America’s refuge A creamy savior, ice cream was America’s refuge during Prohibition, and one of our favorite forms of solace during the Great Depression. One might argue that without the aid of ice cream we might not be here today.
"Good apple pies are a considerable part of our do "Good apple pies are a considerable part of our domestic happiness." — Jane Austen
Load More... Follow on Instagram

 

Everly Post slider

  • Brown Betty, Dessert or Racial Epithet?

  • Sweet French Pastry Dough (Pâte Sucrée)

  • tart

    The Tart, a High Form of Pastry

  • A legion of Lemon Meringue Tarts

    Lemon Meringue Pie

  • american apple pie

    Apple Pie, American by Association

  • Buttery Flaky Pie Crust

    Buttery Flaky Pie Dough

Follow

milkandhoneythebakery

"By their desserts will I judge them."
•Saveur Food Blog Award Finalist 2019: Best Baking and Sweets

Hannah | Milk + Honey Bakery
Imagine it: A thick, creamy, salty layer of peanut Imagine it: A thick, creamy, salty layer of peanut butter sandwiched between a crunchy coating of toasted almonds and toffee and a sweet chewy base of dates and oats. Now drizzle that in dark chocolate, and you’ve got yourself these decadent raw chocolate, peanut butter almond bars. 

Vegan, refined-sugar free, and gluten-free, eating responsibly has never felt so indulgent. Get the recipe on the blog this week!
The superiority of chocolate, both for health and The superiority of chocolate, both for health and nourishment, will soon give it the same preference over tea and coffee in America which it has in Spain.
-Thomas Jefferson

While not necessarily for the health reasons stated, Jefferson’s prediction has certainly come to materialize, at least in my home.
A debate I had with my husband shortly after makin A debate I had with my husband shortly after making this honey-almond “snack cake”: As we sat around “snacking,” we began to discuss what the real difference was between Snack cakes and Snacking cakes. Banal, yet relevant in the moment. 

This arbitrary mystery resulted in a lot of opinions and by the end of it, several unanswered questions. 

So I put it to you, Instagram Family, what is the real difference between Snack cakes and Snacking cakes? Are the terms so similar as to be inconsequential, or do their comparabilities hide deeper differences? 

The perimeters (at least in my mind) are these: Leftover birthday cake that becomes the next morning’s breakfast would definitely be a snack cake. Meaning a snack cake, while sounding laid-back, could be a slice of sophisticated dacquiouse or some other luxurious dessert.
Whereas a snacking cake would be something more along the lines of a sheet cake (like the classic chocolate Texas variety). More than a brownie but less than a layer cake. Something you could take a fork to but would probably just pick up with your hands. 

In short, any cake can be a snack. But not every cake is a snacking cake.

Thoughts?
When confronted by the age old question: ‘chocol When confronted by the age old question: ‘chocolate or carrot,’ which do you choose?
Is it too soon for #pumpkinspice ? Is it too soon for #pumpkinspice ?
Fragranced by delicate basil, rich with parmesan a Fragranced by delicate basil, rich with parmesan and pine nuts, and packing a garlicky punch, our braided pesto bread is the ideal way to use up your garden’s bounty. 

Also it looks impressive. Pull-out all the stops and impress your family and guests with this ultra-easy and rewarding loaf.
Consumed by Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs the ancient Consumed by Olmecs, Mayans, and Aztecs the ancient Mesoamericans are remembered as the original chocolate lovers. Considered a sacred beverage among them, cocoa was used during celebrations and religious ceremonies and was thought to lend the drinker strength.

It is said that Montezuma kept a massive storehouse of cocoa beans, and drank 50 golden cups of the stuff a day, decreeing that only those men brave enough to face battle would be permitted to join him in drinking it. Chocolate eventually becoming a regular part of military rations among the Aztecs. 

The belief that chocolate was a powerful elixir that lent its drinker extra virility and strength seems to have made its way into European and US thinking as well and may explain the application of including chocolate or pressed cakes of cocoa powder in US military rations, an operation practiced all the way up to the Vietnam war. 

With piles of historical evidence it would stand to reason that chocolate must be good for me, so I’m going to start making a regular habit of indulging in it. Each bite imbuing me with strength, vim, and vigor. Don’t stay a weakling all your life, join me in making these chocolate pot de creme today and start eating more chocolate.
A creamy savior, ice cream was America’s refuge A creamy savior, ice cream was America’s refuge during Prohibition, and one of our favorite forms of solace during the Great Depression. One might argue that without the aid of ice cream we might not be here today.
"Good apple pies are a considerable part of our do "Good apple pies are a considerable part of our domestic happiness." — Jane Austen
Load More... Follow on Instagram
© 2017 copyright PREMIUMCODING // All rights reserved
Designed by Premiumcoding
 

Loading Comments...
 

    loading Cancel
    Post was not sent - check your email addresses!
    Email check failed, please try again
    Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.